New Mexico Day 1 - Radiation, Rattlesnakes, and Really Fine Chainsaw Work
After a great first night in the Albuquerque, my first full day in ABQ got off to a solid start at a place place called Humble Coffee. It was a really cool little coffee shop with excellent coffee, but they probably wouldn't brag about that sort of thing. The thing that kind of dwarfed the coffee though was the fact that across from the cafe, I got my first real look at the Rocky Mountains and they were truly awe-inspiring.
I posted this photo on instagram with the caption "I can't get over these mountains" and the very Vermont comic Carl Sonnefeld commented "Have you tried going around them?"
My first post caffeine stop of the day was the National Museum of Nuclear Science and History. If you're having a tough time finding it, it's the one with the giant atom out front.
I really loved this museum, because it's so crazy that when New Mexico was only barely even a state, these sleepy dessert towns witnessed the birth of the atomic age. It's so fascinating how the subject of nuclear science is at once very unique and specific and also incredibly broad, and the museum does an excellent job really capturing New Mexico's unique and specific role in the world of nuclear science while also touching upon all the interesting and varied branches nuclear science has gone down since then.
The first gallery in the museum was a nice introduction to two of the most important pioneers of nuclear physics, Marie Curie and Albert Einstein. The thing that struck me about these two giants this time around was how easily the world could have ignored them for stupid stupid reasons. Marie Curie was sexually liberated and a genius scientist at a time when women were not expected to be either, and Einstein was a Jewish man living in Germany when Hitler came to power. Curie was denied University Laboratory positions in her native Poland despite her numerous academic accomplishments because of her gender, so her husband Pierre convinced her to go back to France with him and pursue a Ph.D. It's very likely that if it weren't for Pierre also being a respected scientist, Marie's work uncovering radioactivity may have further continued to be ignored, but to his credit he always made sure people knew her work was her own, and the fact that some of her greatest works came after his death made her brilliance impossible to ignore. Not that her contemporaries always wanted to accept it, and she was subjected to a lot more scrutiny than her male colleagues almost losing her job when it came out that she had an affair with a married man, which while not nice for the man's wife was a decision that she felt two adults in their 40s should be able to make on their own without it having any bearing on her professional life. The French press was not thrilled with this, but then that same year she became the first person to win two Nobel prizes so that sort of put a stop to any ideas of firing her. While Einstein didn't face such uphill battles to even getting recognition, his close calls with discrimination were a lot more frightening. He felt the growing antisemitism in Germany, and was fortunately in America on a visiting professorship when Hitler was elected to power. He stopped in Belgium upon returning from America, and learned that while he was gone the Nazis had raided his cottage and Goebels was actively discrediting his work as "Jewish intellectualism". Einstein and his wife renounced their German citizenship at the German consulate there, and became refugees. With the help of some friends in the British military, he and some other German-Jewish scientists were able to flee to England and eventually to America. I think there is some beautiful poetic justice that while Hitler's anti-semitism led to his greatest horrors, in a lot of ways it also hastened his defeat because his loss of those great scientific minds was a huge gain for the allied forces and the world at large. We're very lucky that these brilliant people persisted despite the obstacles society put in their path, but it does always make me sad to think how many more potential minds were ultimately ignored for foolish arbitrary reasons all through history (and certainly to this day). I know it's a long tangent to go off of on two photos, but I think it captures a lot about the wonderful improbabilities and all the little things that could have gone wrong and didn't on the path to discovering the wonderfully improbably building blocks of all matter and how they work. Plus the Einstein baby picture is very adorable.
Around the corner from this introductory exhibit was a special installation by a sculptor named Jim Sanborn called Critical Assembly: The Secrets of Los Alamos. The piece seeks to recreate the look and feel of the secret Manhattan Project research labs in Los Alamos. It's a very cool piece in that combines real artifacts, parts made specially by the artist, and different light and sound effects for a real immersive experience that, to use a slightly corny phrase, really did make history come alive. You felt like Robert Oppenheimer had just left and would be back any minute. Besides being a beautiful and informative bit of historical fiction, the thing that struck me most about Sanborn's installation was the fact that these scientists were literally working with nuclear materials, building an atom bomb, on top of regular crowded wooden tables! They were in such a rush to keep up with their own exponential breakthroughs, not to mention the external threat of the war, that shockingly little thought to personal safety was given, even for the hazards they did know existed since the big one of cancer from radiation was still unknown. It said on one of the informative plaques that half the time they weren't even wearing gloves! It feels like any other kind of cluttered office space, except one wrong moment of spilling coffee or tripping over a pencil could have triggered a nuclear explosion. It's truly amazing how easy it would have been for these great discoveries to have ended in tragedy instead (not to say that Hiroshima and Nagasaki weren't tragedies, but they just weren't the end of the nuclear age which mistakes here could have been. All very speculative of course.)
The next gallery was filled with real artifacts and photos from the different Manhattan project locations, though obviously since were were in New Mexico the majority of the focus was on Los Alamos. That's also fair because mostly what happened in Tennesse, Washington, and West Virginia was the safe production and refinement of different necessary materials for the nuclear bomb, but most of the research and designing was coming together in New Mexico. The coolest thing I learned about one of the non-New Mexico sites was that the Y-12 plant in Oak Ridge Tennessee that was tasked with enriching Uranium was almost entirely manned by young women right out of high school. This was partly because they were the majority of the available labor force at the time given the war, but also because since they were hired from a temp agency they were used to just doing what jobs were given to them without really asking to many questions so most of the girls knew they were operating some kind of industrial machine but had no idea that it was for a nuclear bomb. The best part of the story though was that they got to be so good at operating the machines that for fun they had the girls race trained Ph.D scientists and these women fresh out of high school crushed them. They actually had one of the machines, called a Calutron, used by those women which was amazing to see. The other highlights for me here were the photos and day to day artifacts from the facilities at Los Alamos, because it was like the most stressful summer camp ever. Since everything was so top secret, the lives of those scientists, military personnel, and their families were almost entirely restricted to that army base, and in a lot of ways these geniuses totally regressed to acting like high school kids. There were hook ups, in-fighting, and all kinds of planned activities just to keep everyone from going crazy from cabin fever. It's so weird seeing nuclear physicists ice skating, but those breaks here and there were incredibly necessary. I also cracked up reading that the whole project almost fell apart when they ran out of diapers, and every mom and baby was ready to stage a military coup because they were quite literally losing their shit.
One of the other stories that I found particularly remarkable was about the first controlled nuclear chain reaction, which was done using something now called a Chicago Pile. Since this was just to prove that it was possible to create and control a chain reaction, and not necessarily do anything with it, the pile was a very crude construction essentially just containing several blocks of uranium insulated with other blocks of graphite and some protective rods of cadmium and wood. It was also massive, ultimately having enough blocks and rods to weigh several tons. The pile was conceived of by Enrico Fermi, and its first successful reaction was a landmark moment in science but as keeps coming up a lot of the particulars were pretty crazy. Like for example the fact that it all happened under the stands of a football stadium at the University of Chicago, because it was the only place that was big enough, remote enough, and discreet enough. The university had recently abandoned its football program, but that space was being used as racquetball and squash courts before they handed it over to Fermi. Another crazy thing is that their key safety measure for ending the chain reaction was cutting a rope to release the main control rods that would dampen the reaction, so even while the reaction was happening they had to have men with axes standing over the pile ready to cut the rope at any moment. You can see from the picture below all the scientists watching from a nice safe distance and then in the corner some big strong guys basically right on top of the thing. The craziest thing of all was that because it had never been done, despite all their research and precautions they really had no clue what was going to happen. Fermi was confident that it would be very safe, but there was technically a tiny chance that the reaction might set off other reactions and never stop and cause a massive nuclear explosion. It's the kind of slight chance that makes you really make sure you check and recheck your figures though.
From here it was on to a special exhibit that took things even further back into history to the very foundations of physics. The room was filled with little wooden mechanisms that demonstrated different physical properties ranging from very simple machines like levers and pulleys to more complex machines like gear shifts for bicycles. My favorite was an optical illusion called the mechanical paradox where a little wooden top shaped things seem to involuntarily roll uphill. It works because deceptively even though the movement is uphill, the center of gravity is actually lower at the up hill position than the down hill position. It was a fun exhibit because it was so interactive, and its crazy to think that everything, even the atom bomb, really just works through increasingly complex linkings of these real basic properties.
Thing got back to more pure nuclear science in a big way with replicas of the Fat Man and Little Boy bombs. It's so cognitively dissonant that such powerful weapons of destruction could have such silly names that also sort of work perfectly. I guess psychology you need all the levity you can when you're about to kill tens of thousands of people in a single moment. War is crazy, and I feel insanely spoiled that I get to go out and tell jokes everyday instead of going anywhere near it. While I felt relatively familiar with the story of the Enola Gay dropping the Little Boy on Hiroshima, I knew almost nothing about the Bockscar's mission to drop the Fat Man. Fortunately one of the museum staff (who I believe was retired air force but I might be getting the branch of service wrong since I didn't put it in my notes) loves telling this story because it's such a harrowing and darkly comic example of Murphy's Law, that really almost sounds like something out of Dr. Strangelove instead of actual history. Whereas the Enola Gay mission ran very smoothly, Bockscar had everything go wrong basically from the start. Before they even took off they learned that they had broken fuel transport pump so about 640 gallons of fuel would be unusable but would still have to be carried which would add to the total weight and take up more of the usable fuel. Because they'd already been loaded with a live atomic bomb, they decided that there wasn't enough time to try to fix the pump and it would be too dangerous to move the bomb to another plane so they went for it anyway. Nagasaki was actually their secondary target, and their intended target was the city of Kokura. They had been told wait no more than 15 minutes at Kokura before either dropping the bomb or moving on to Nagasaki, but when one of their accompanying planes didn't arrive on schedule at a rendezvous point they decided to wait for them before proceeding. They ended up spending an extra half hour waiting, and then by the time they got to Kokura smoke from other bombings made it impossible to get a visual so they had to move on to Nagasaki using up even more of their diminished fuel supply. When they got there clouds had rolled in and were blocking their target site. They circled around a dew times, taking heavy fire the whole time, and when they finally got a visual through a hole in the clouds they dropped the Fat Man. Apparently despite killing at least 35,000 people (which is a horrifying number of people to just stop living in a single moment) and destroying 44% of the city, they actually missed their target and a slight majority of the city was protected by nearby hills. I think they did enough though. If you think that things would go smoothly once the bomb was dropped, you could not be more wrong. They didn't have enough fuel to make it to there scheduled landing point in Iwo Jima so they flew instead to a closer air field in Okinawa. They tried to contact the air traffic controllers to get clearance for a landing but they ended up circling for 20 minutes before realizing that their radio was broken! They only had enough fuel left for one landing attempt so they just went for an unscheduled landing, sending off distress flares to give the ground control as much warning as possible. On descent, their number 2 engines died and they hit the ground hard and they didn't have enough use of their propellors to break hard enough so they had to make a swerving 90-degree turn to not go off the runway. While they were breaking another engine gave out, but they did come to a halt with all of the crew unscathed. When they measured how much fuel they had left, they had exactly enough for five more minutes! What an an insane ordeal.
I do give the museum a lot of credit for pairing these big ol’ bombs with a pretty comprehensive pros and cons list about the decision to drop them. Personally, I think with the benefit of hindsight we should not have dropped them if only because we really just didn’t understand fully what was going to happen. There’s still long term environmental and health consequences that we’re only just discovering now, and as damaging as the bombs were in theory it could have been even worse and we had no way of knowing what we were really going to get because it was so unprecedented. That being said, if you put me in the shoes of Harry Truman in the actual moment, without any of that foreknowledge, the decision becomes a lot less clear cut. The bombs did end the war quicker which saved a lot of American lives, which is arguably the primary concern of a president during wartime. While Japan would have likely surrendered eventually without the use of such atrocious weapons, there was no telling when that would be and there was added savvy on the part of the Americans to ending the war ASAP because that meant ending war in the Pacific theater before the Soviets had a chance to get involved and thus not having to negotiate treaties with them. I do not envy Truman the position of effectively already being in the Cold War before WWII even ended and thus having to measure every wartime decision on how it would effect the war effort, how it would effect Americans at home, and how it would effect relations with Russia going forward. With all three of these things in mind, and given that he trusted his scientists who probably acted more confident than they were in their knowledge of what would happen when the bomb went off, Truman probably made the right decision in the moment to drop the bomb. That being said I have a lot of issues with HOW the bombs were dropped mainly the fact that they were dropped with no warning over civilian targets. In my hippie dippie way, I’d love if nobody had to kill anyone ever but at least among soldiers there’s an understanding that that might happen. The vast majority of the people who died in these bombings had absolutely no idea what was going to happen or that it was even an option. In one moment there were hundreds of thousands of people and in the next moment there wasn’t. I think in a similar way to the holocaust, the number of deaths is almost too big to imagine to so it becomes abstracted in your mind (assuming you don’t have a more personal connection that grounds it) and easier to compartmentalize without really giving it the weight it deserves. I just don’t think any person or any nation should have that kind of power, and I would love it if we could just rid of all of these remaining nuclear arms but now that the lid is off that can of worms there’s no putting it back on.
Next to the big bombs, there was a replica of The Gadget, which was again a very silly yet pretty spot on name for a nuclear device. This time though it was sort of the rough draft for a nuclear bomb that that they dropped way off in the desserts of New Mexico. That weird little ball was the beginning of a new age because it proved conclusively for the first time that a nuclear bomb was feasible. In the newest season of Twin Peaks (one of my very favorite things ever committed to Television), there is an unprecedented episode in the middle that (sort of infamously now) features nearly 10 full minutes of static and abstract imagery which while initially off putting is also kind go magical. Amidst all that strangeness though, you get the closest thing David Lynch ever gives to an explanation of all the dark supernatural elements underpinning his sleepy little mountain town, and he traces it all to this first nuclear bomb test. The implication is that from the moment that bomb was functional something was released into the universe that we didn’t understand and both great forces of evil and great forces of good emerged, but nothing would ever be the same again. Like all David Lynch stuff, it’s a bit melodramatic and far fetched but also oddly lovely and in this case I think alarmingly prescient. And it scares the hell out of me to no end, that at least two of the men in this world who have direct access to that great power for evil are completely self-absorbed megalomaniacs
On a lighter note, one very beautiful thing to come out of that first Trinity Test was the creation a green glass like compound called Trinitite caused by the surrounding sands being exposed to such immediate high temperatures and radiation. It’s nice illustration of the dual nature of nuclear physics in that that capacity for destruction also contains a great capacity for creation.
After that brief light note, it’s back to the dark stuff in a very important section of the museum that showed real pictures of the destruction in Hiroshima and Nagaski as well as photographic portraits of the people who lived there. It was really gut wrenching stuff, to see the before and after photos of the city especially, but I’m so glad that the museum included this because I think it’s important to never lose the human element of these historical moments. This may have happened long ago, and far away, and for reasons that had a logic behind them, but it happened to real people and it continues to affect real people. We have to live with and learn from that. One interesting and kind of spooky element in some of the photographs is the presence of what has been called bomb shadows, which are little clear spots in otherwise burned or charred surfaces where some object (or in some cases some body) blocked the path of the heat flash. It’s incredibly eerie.
The good news is that since that’s the only time nukes have ever been dropped, it’s all a little bit lighter from there with lots of artifacts showing the progression of bombs being built during the cold war. Of course, it's mildly terrifying that several decades of work and money went into Russia and the US perfecting ways to blow each other off the planet. Don't worry though they also had several Cold War era boy scout manuals and comics telling you how to duck and cover so if anything had gotten launched we would have been fine.
From there, I stepped outside to see the museum's collection of historic planes, missiles, and rockets. They even had the sail of a nuclear submarine which was my favorite part because I liked pretending there was a full submarine under there.
The next section of the museum was probably the most fun and focused on different pop culture takes on Nuclear science. This started off with a bang (sorry, I had to) with photos from the shockingly not made up Miss Atomic Bomb pageant.
Next up was some cool tech including a nuclear power themed Indy race car that had been co-sponsored by Paul Newman, and a Jacob's Ladder which is a device that produces a continues jumping electrical spark and was featured in just about every sci-fi movie laboratory ever.
The most exciting piece of technology though was a DeLorean from the classic film series Back to the Future complete with a Flux Capacitor. It made my little nerdy heart beat go over 88 mph and 1.21 gigawatts.
The other highlight of the pop culture exit for me was their collection of nuclear themed comic books from around the world. They had some classics like vintage Incredible Hulks, and also a really great Japanese series called Barefoot Gen which was written by Keiji Nakazawa, an actual Hiroshima survivor.
After the pop culture section was a section about nuclear power. This included models of Nuclear power stations, a model for a never fully completed nuclear powered ocean liner, and displays on nanotechnology. They gave a pretty nice breakdown of the pros and cons of different alternative energies, with the biggest cons to Nuclear power being the high initial cost to set up safe power stations and the obvious difficulty of dealing with nuclear waste. The pros were that it is by far the most efficient fuel once it does get going. While most of the exhibit was about the positives of nuclear power, they did have information about the few examples of major nuclear power disasters. The biggest surprise for me there was that the Soviet government initially tried to cover up that anything happened at Chernobyl. I'm sorry but if there's one thing that might be a tad challenging to hide it would be a huge nuclear meltdown.
The last exhibit was a fun one about the rise of radiation themed hoaxes and quackery from the early 20th century. After Marie Curie's initial discovery of radium, there was a huge fad to put radium in everything because of the perceived medicinal value. They even sold radium infused water! Yikes, its amazing that anyone survived to the 21st century.
For lunch, I went to a highly recommended Mexican restaurant called Padilla's Mexican Kitchen. I got a big cheesy burrito smothered in cheese and sauce. It was a beautiful mess, totally delicious but totally requiring napkins. Even better, it came with a side of 2 sweet and doughy sopaipillas. Nothing like starting a week in New Mexico with a big helping of Old Mexico.
After lunch, I went to the Old Town neighborhood of Albuquerque. Old town features beautiful Pueblo-Spanish architecture dating back almost three hundred years. The oldest building in the city, the San Felipe de Neri Church, is right at the neighborhood's center and was built in 1793. My favorite thing about the church though was that outside was what looked like an old dead tree, but if you look closely in the knot of the tree you'll see a carved Madonna figure looking out at you.
While the neighborhood goes way way back, it hasn't lost any of its vibrancy, and dozens of local artists and craftsman sit in the shade and peddle their wares next to cozy restaurants and shops.
Among those cozy shops the one I needed most desperately was a little cafe called the Blackbird Coffee House. It was a very homey, artsy coffee shop and while it wasn't very big it sure packed a big a big flavor.
After getting all caffeinated, I went to the Rattlesnake museum, so Dad and other ophidiophobes, you might want to skip ahead a bit. I really fell in love with the gift shop of this museum because it was filled with all kinds of snake themed art from modern and traditional Southwestern artists. I was happiest to see some great Kachina figures including some Rattlesnake Kachina, also called Squash Kachina because they look like watermelons and other gourds as much as they look like snakes. Other highlights were stone animals called fetishes (a spiritual kind not the naught kind), and it was just amazing to see what shapes people were able to get out of stone.
But of course you don't go to the rattlesnake museum for the art. You go for the rattlesnakes, and they delivered in spades. Most of the rattlers were native to the Southwestern region, but they had some from all over the world. The thing that really amazed me about these guys is how perfect their different camouflages are. More often than not I would be looking at a terrarium for at least a minute before I realized what I thought was just rocks or sand was actually a coiled up snake. It's uncanny, and it would be very very scary except that I also read in the museum that rattlers really go out of there way to avoid people because we're big and scary to them and we scare off their real food so we're also just a nuisance. I also recommend clicking on the bottom right snake because I caught him with the most comically exaggerated angry eyebrows that it really looks they were drawn on, but I swear he's just that naturally grumpy.
The museum also made some time for non-snake reptiles and amphibians including some frogs, a salamander, and a gila monster. They also had a black widow spider, but for whatever weird primal reason that one creeped me out way more than any of the snakes so I didn't take it's picture.
My favorite guys though were these big dopey tortoises who were chowing down on some lettuce while I was there. For context the guy on the right was very much just in the middle of the floor, and every visitor while I was there almost jumped when they realized he was actually alive and not just a decoration. I loved these big goofs.
Not all the museum inhabitants were still alive and kicking though, and they had some really cool fossils and skeletons ranging from monstrous prehistoric crocodiles to weird little platypuses. I have no clue if that's the proper pluralization.
Perhaps the most shocking discovery in the museum though was in their collection of vintage comic comic books featuring reptilian creatures and the realization that there was ever a comic book called the The Adventures of Jerry Lewis. Talk about thrilling!
Lastly the museum knew the way straight to my heart with a collection of curated Far Side cartoons featuring snakes. For reasons that I don't fully understand, this one in particular made me laugh out loud an embarrassing amount.
After the Rattlesnake Museum (which adorably gives you a certificate of bravery when you finish your visit), I went to do the hottest new tourist thing in the ABQ, which is to go to a bunch of the filming locations from Breaking Bad and Better Call Saul. I started with Walter White's house, which is clearly owned by people who never thought the show would take off like it did as they've put up signs that say "You can take your photos from across the street" God help you if you even think of trying to throw a pizza on their garage, they will 1000% call the police. After that I went to see the real site of Saul Goodman's Law office which in real life is sports pub called Hooligans which feels right. Due to some storage issues on my phone, both of my photos were lost, but I got a good google capture of Hooligans because it makes me laugh.
After my makeshift Breaking Bad Tour, I went to see the Pueblo Montaño Chainsaw Sculpture Garden. The garden is located on the Pueblo Montaño trailhead of the Paseo del Bosque trail. When the trail was ravaged by a forest fire, one of the firefighters named Mark Chavez decided to beautify the charred remains of the cottonwood trees the way he knew best... with a chainsaw. For a tool, I don't exactly associate with delicacy, I have to say his handiwork speaks for itself and Mark was able to make some pretty amazing sculptures.
At this point it was time to head out for the open mic. It was at a place called Back Alley Draft House. I got there a little bit early and the bar was temporarily closed for a private, but in a very happy coincidence one of the comics I met last night, Patrick Harrison, was also early so we went to another bar nearby called Anodyne. Anodyne was very hip and known for also being a place to go and play pool but in a young hipstery way as opposed to an older divey pool hall way. We had a few beers and chatted about comedy, each agreeing that we were so impressed by the night before, which was a perfect way to kill time before the bar with the open mic was open.
When we did get to the freshly opened Back Alley Draft House, they had an impressive draft selection, a really friendly and funny staff, and most excitingly for me, my old rival Elvira's Scared Stiff Pinball. I had one of my best rounds almost getting all the stupid challenges, but the MIstress of the Dark bested me again.
When I wasn't becoming alarmingly engrossed in Pinball, I did have a nice time chatting with some more of the comics from the night before, which further cemented Albuquerque as having one of the friendliest scenes around.
More than just being super friendly the comics also all brought the funny.
My favorite comic of the night was a guy named Jason Green, who had such a magnetic stage presence that he was able to get away with some stunningly dark jokes about a school shooting that he saw on the news. The key word here though is that he totally pulled it off, which I think illustrates the idea that a joke being "bad taste" is really more a reflection of bad writing or performance because when those two things are good enough any topic can be funny. It also helps when the intentions behind a dark joke were pure, and the jokes were more focused on the news coverage than the shooting itself. All that being said, my favorite line of his was actually a silly throw away one liner: "Opinions are like assholes, you need yours and then two or three to play around with"
Other Highlights:
Kevin Baca - "I have a project car, but it's also my only car"
William Wheeler- Did comedy magic tricks! That always spices up an open mic, because even if the jokes don't land you get to see magic
Jesse James - I got my ass eaten out for the first time, last time I ever fall asleep at a petting zoo
My own set went really well, and it was kind of nice to see some familiar face from the night before because it made me want to do material they hadn't seen before so I tried a new combination of jokes, and I think that sort of gave me a bit of an energy boost because I didn't know what was going to happen next. It's easy to grow complacent when you have one set you feel confident, but it can get dull to say the same jokes over and over again even if they're knew for the audience so sometimes kicking yourself out of that rut is the best thing you can do. The fact that it was invigorating for me, but also well received by the audience was incredibly validating.
Favorite Random Sightings: Mike's Jerky; Baptism and Communions: Tuxedoes, Shoes, and Veils (the veils were the part I was a little surprised by); G Money's Vapes; Chile Addict
Regional Observation: I had never seen tumble weed before, but after driving on New Mexico highways let me tell you, it is very real and it's going to make a mess of the front of your car.
Albums Listened To: The Revolution Will Not Be Televised by Gil Scott-Heron; Revolver by the Beatles; Rhino Hi-Five Dusty Springfield (just Son of a Preacher Man)
People's Favorite Jokes:
Didn't get any today but here's one from the internet:
I couldn't figure out why the baseball kept getting larger. Then it hit me.
Songs of the Day:
George was always my favorite
It’s kind of a creepy song, but I’ve loved it since I first saw Pulp Fiction
Bonus: One more look at those dang mountains
